精彩對(duì)白:My Ellie would have loved all these. You know, because of you she had this dream to come down here and live by the fall.
Dessert: 餐后甜點(diǎn)無憾幸福
Dessert is a course that typically comes at the end of a meal, usually consisting of sweet food but sometimes of a strongly-flavored one, such as some cheeses. The word comes from the French language as dessert and this from Old French desservir, "to clear the table" and "to serve." Common desserts include cakes, cookies, fruits, pastries, ice cream, and candies.
The word dessert is most commonly used for this course in U.S., Canada, Australia, and Ireland, while sweet, pudding or afters would be more typical terms in the UK and some other Commonwealth countries, including India. According to Debrett's, pudding is the proper term, dessert is only to be used if the course consists of fruit, and sweet is colloquial. This, of course, reflects the upper-class/upper-middle-class usage. More commonly, the words simply form a class shibboleth; pudding being the upper-class and upper-middle-class word to use for sweet food served after the main course, sweet, afters and dessert being considered non-U. However, dessert is considered slightly better than the other two, owing to many young people, whose parents say pudding, acquiring the word from American media.
Desserts are often eaten with a dessert spoon, intermediate in size between a teaspoon and a tablespoon.
甜點(diǎn),中西餐譜上通行的英文Dessert乃借自法文,特指正餐之后的那一道甜點(diǎn),區(qū)別于Tea Time的閑食,又作“甜品”而通行于中餐館,不過那是粵語的說法。
與甜點(diǎn)對(duì)應(yīng)的是開胃菜,后者很少有甜的,種類上也遠(yuǎn)不如甜點(diǎn)豐富。既然雅克德里達(dá)認(rèn)為開胃菜相當(dāng)于一本書的前言或者導(dǎo)讀,這樣我就可以放心地指出,甜品相當(dāng)于這本書的后記或跋。成為經(jīng)典的導(dǎo)讀或前言不勝枚舉,寫得好的后記卻并不多見。
開胃因顯而易見的實(shí)用而被普遍接受,結(jié)束的意義卻很曖昧。一道成功的甜點(diǎn)應(yīng)該兼有一切壓軸節(jié)目的樂而不淫以及悼詞的哀而不傷,方能控制好“結(jié)束”的火候。
西式的甜品花團(tuán)錦簇,尤以意、法為盛。提拉米蘇(Tiramisu)和薩芭雍(Sabayon)這種華麗的甜點(diǎn)一出場(chǎng),餐桌就變成了春裝發(fā)布會(huì)的天橋。作為意大利甜點(diǎn)的代表,外貌絢麗、姿態(tài)嬌媚的提拉米蘇已風(fēng)靡全球。它以Espresso(特濃意大利咖啡)的苦、蛋與糖的潤、甜酒的醇、巧克力的馥郁、手指餅干的綿密、乳酪和鮮奶油的稠香、可可粉的干爽,只用了不到十種材料,把“甜”以及甜所能喚起的種種錯(cuò)綜復(fù)雜的體驗(yàn),交糅著一層層演繹到極致。
意大利甜點(diǎn)的獨(dú)步天下,可能與意大利人對(duì)于“甜”的特殊理解有關(guān)。常見于樂譜的意大利文Dolce,往往在“甜”的主旋律之下提示著某種“甜美”和“憂傷”的風(fēng)格,為其他語種所不具備。不過,甜蜜的悲傷一旦濫觴起來,很容易聚合為密度大到令人窒息的妖艷以及腐朽,正是費(fèi)里尼《甜蜜生活》(La Dolce Vita/1960,這一年,威尼斯人發(fā)明了提拉米蘇)的基調(diào)。
作為正餐終結(jié)者西式甜品始終指向一種線性的高潮。阿連德在《春膳》中直接了當(dāng)?shù)刂赋觥疤鹌肥怯H密縱欲的極致”,能讓純潔無瑕的圣女“眼睛里放出冶艷的光芒”。
傳統(tǒng)中國飲食被誤信為輕視甜點(diǎn),不過蜜餞、水果等等在隆重的宴饗場(chǎng)合并不缺乏,被輕視的可能只是順序。其實(shí),許多中式甜點(diǎn)都適宜用來結(jié)束晚飯,如成都和寧波的湯團(tuán)以及到處可見的紅豆沙、綠豆沙之類。不過此等甜點(diǎn)往往甜得過于直白露骨,明火執(zhí)仗而缺乏惻隱之心,廣州的西關(guān)馳名甜點(diǎn)“鳳凰奶糊”,最有這種甜死你才肯休的意志,比較適用于大團(tuán)圓結(jié)束的營造。
相比之下,和食倒真是缺乏原創(chuàng)的甜點(diǎn),大部分料理皆以一道綠茶雪糕終。這一點(diǎn),可能與日本人缺乏關(guān)于“結(jié)束”的觀念、或曰他們對(duì)這件事有非常獨(dú)到的見解有關(guān)。
若以面粉為主食的西餐總是由以蛋糕為主的甜點(diǎn)引領(lǐng)至天堂,那么面歸面,米歸米,粒食為本的中餐就應(yīng)該善終以米。因此,我認(rèn)為江浙一帶家庭自制的甜酒釀最能表現(xiàn)“天下無不散”的復(fù)雜心情。它潔凈而不事鋪張,月白風(fēng)清之間最多也只許有少量的鵝黃桂花飄浮,用青花小碗盛著,甜酸里交織著酒的迷離,米的甘飴,酵的沉緬以及冰的清醒。如果“悲欣交集”讓你覺得過火而且唐突了弘一上人,在心里說一聲“天涼好個(gè)秋”總該是恰如其分了罷。(Source: sohu.com)
考考你
1. 只要我把這個(gè)生物帶回去,就可以挽回我的名聲。
2. 時(shí)間過得真快。
3. 我給了它一些巧克力,它高興得要發(fā)瘋了。
4. 我等不及看它的下場(chǎng)。
Up 《飛屋環(huán)游記》精講之四參考答案
1. At this rate we will never get to the falls!
2. If you two don't clear out of here by the time I count to three...
3. But Phyllis told me I bug him too much.
4. Cross your heart?
精彩對(duì)白: My Ellie would have loved all these. You know, because of you she had this dream to come down here and live by the fall.
(英語點(diǎn)津 Julie編輯)
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