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Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) clothes belonging to Confucius' aristocratic descendants are amongthe best-preserved of the era and offer hints of lost textile arts. Zhao Ruixue reports in Jinan. Despite being more than 500 years old, the silk garments worn by Yansheng dukes -Confucius' direct descendants, honored as nobility - are as well kept as when the aristocratswore them to meet Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) emperors. The best-preserved Ming clothing was discovered in two black cases in theConfucius Family Mansion in Qufu, Shandong province. There were about100 garments. Of these, some 40 articles of Ming clothing and 50 pieces ofQing Dynasty (1644-1911) clothing were donated to the ShandongProvincial Museum between 1954 and 1956. "Most of the clothing was awarded by emperors. The dukes treasured theselike champions treasure gold medals today," says Song Dong, curator of anongoing exhibition featuring the Ming and Qing nobles' wardrobes in theShandong Provincial Museum. The title Yansheng was created as a marquisate during the Western HanDynasty (206 BC-AD 24). The Song (960-1279) Emperor Renzong(1022-63) raised the 46th-generation descendant of Confucius to the rankof duke. Dukes enjoyed privileges until the Republic of China's founding in1911. Duke Yansheng ranked first or second among civil officials during the MingDynasty. The Records for Qufu shows that Ming emperors awarded Yansheng dukesvarious garments, including court robes, crowns, shoes and jade belts. Thedukes cherished these items. Confucius family members have long highlighted clothing as a crucialcomponent of etiquette. The Confucius Family Mansion employed specialservants to care for the clothing. A servant would take a list of the clothing that the Duke Yansheng coupleshould wear on a special occasion to another servant who was exclusivelyresponsible for getting the clothing from the wardrobe. There were alsoservants responsible for maintaining the clothing. The garments are now kept in a special cabinet with controlled temperature,humidity and illumination ranges. They're displayed on acid-free paper, saysYu Qin, who's responsible for the garments at the museum. "If we can't preserve the clothing carefully, it will carbonize and disappear,"Song says. "After all, silk is mostly protein." Ming Tombs Research Society member Cao Jin points out clothes passeddown for generations are usually in better condition than those unearthed. "It took two years for one person to finish such a robe," Cao says, pointing toa mustard-colored silk robe with an embroidered boa exhibited in themuseum. "The robe is so well preserved that you can even see the stitches." The clothing collection from the Confucius Family Mansion includes perhapsthe world's only complete set of Ming court clothing, Song says. But it's notyet known which duke it belonged to. It consists of a five-beamed crown, redsilk court robe, red silk skirt, white silk inner garment and a pair of bright redshoes with green lining and cloud patterns. The crown is the only one of its kind, although its pin and tassel is missing. Yu Qin, from the museum, says: "Parts of the garments disintegrated when we tried to hangthem up." Song says the most difficult part of restoring Ming clothing is the pigmentation, which was madefrom Ming-era plants. "Nobody knows how to make these today," Song says. |
正在山東博物館展出的《大羽華裳——明清服飾特展》匯集了國(guó)內(nèi)三家最頂級(jí)的明清服裝收藏單位——山東博物館、故宮博物院和曲阜文物管理委員會(huì)的二百余件文物，其中服飾147件。展覽為期一個(gè)月，將在6月18日結(jié)束。 “此次展覽是世界上首次將明清服制合璧展出。出于對(duì)服飾的保護(hù)，像這樣規(guī)模的明清服飾展出在未來(lái)的幾十年內(nèi)是很難再現(xiàn)的。”故宮博物院清代宮廷服飾研究專(zhuān)家房宏俊說(shuō)。 整個(gè)展覽分為《錦織明韻》和《衣繡清風(fēng)》兩大部分，囊括了出土文物和傳世文物。 《錦織明韻》展出出土的魯王冠冕及孔府舊藏服飾，包括了明代官員朝服、公服、常服、忠靜冠服、命婦冠服及一般服飾；《衣繡清風(fēng)》展出了清代官員禮服、吉服、常服、行服及便服。 明魯王冠冕 本次展出有一部分重要展品來(lái)自于山東省鄒城縣的魯王墓。魯王墓是明代前期的一座親王墓。1971年從魯王墓中發(fā)掘出各類(lèi)珍貴文物2000余件。本次服飾展展出了九旒冕及織金盤(pán)龍紋黃緞袍等具有代表性的服飾。 “長(zhǎng)期以來(lái)，對(duì)明代前期冠服制度的了解只局限于文字記載，這件九旒冕為我們提供了實(shí)物的佐證?！鄙綎|省博物館副館長(zhǎng)王之厚介紹說(shuō)。 在古代，冠帽是區(qū)分身份等級(jí)的標(biāo)志之一。冕是帝王貴族專(zhuān)用的一種帽子。明代冕服的使用僅限于皇帝、太子、親王、郡王及世子?；实塾檬济幔优c親王用九旒冕，郡王及世子用七旒冕。 孔府舊藏服飾 本次展出的明代服飾，除了魯王墓出土之外，其他均來(lái)自衍圣公府舊藏服飾。衍圣公是孔子嫡派后裔的世襲封號(hào)，西漢元始元年(公元1年)，漢平帝為了尊奉儒學(xué)、弘揚(yáng)禮教，始封孔子后裔為褒侯。此后的千年時(shí)間里，封號(hào)屢經(jīng)變化。宋仁宗至和二年(1055年)改封世襲衍圣公。歷代衍圣公享受各種特權(quán)，一直到中華民國(guó)的成立。 據(jù)孔府舊藏服飾策劃人宋東介紹，根據(jù)相關(guān)記載，衍圣公府服飾當(dāng)時(shí)是保存在兩只皮箱中，大約有100左右件服飾。其中的四十幾件明代服飾在1954年至1956年間調(diào)撥到山東博物館保存。 “孔府能夠保存這么多完整的明代衣服，很不容易?！彼螙|說(shuō)?！凹词故嵌赀@樣的皇陵，出土的衣服都已經(jīng)碳化損壞了，挖出來(lái)的顏色信息都已缺失了?！?/p> 宋東分析這些服飾之所以會(huì)保存的如此完好，其中一個(gè)原因是這些衣服大部分是皇帝的賜品。“他們(衍圣公)格外珍惜這些皇帝的賜品?！?/p> 而《曲阜縣志》有記載：在明代,御賜衍圣公朝服、蟒袍、袍料、冠、靴、玉帶、帶綬等物。同時(shí)記載“衍圣公府家藏元明衣冠,歷代視若珍寶,珍藏于內(nèi)庫(kù)。 孔子在《大戴禮·勸學(xué)》中如是說(shuō)：“君子不可以不學(xué)，見(jiàn)人不可以不飾。不飾無(wú)貌，無(wú)貌不敬，不敬無(wú)禮，無(wú)禮不立”。可以看出作為中國(guó)封建社會(huì)第一大家族，衍圣公府對(duì)衣冠的重視。 《孔府內(nèi)宅生活》中提到孔府中管理衣服的仆人就有很多。衍圣公夫婦如需更換衣服，通常會(huì)列好單子交給仆人，另有仆人負(fù)責(zé)找所需要的衣服。同時(shí)，衍圣公府還有專(zhuān)門(mén)的人員負(fù)責(zé)管理衣服，記錄衣服的使用情況，并負(fù)責(zé)晾曬、折疊。 目前，“這些服飾被保存在山東博物館的專(zhuān)柜里,專(zhuān)柜設(shè)有特殊的溫度、濕度和照度，并鋪有專(zhuān)門(mén)保存服飾的無(wú)酸紙?！鄙綎|省博物館館員于芹說(shuō)?！耙路蠖颊归_(kāi)平放,防止因壓痕斷裂?！?/p> 然而這些古老的服飾仍然面臨消失的困境。 “畢竟這些料子的主要成分是蛋白質(zhì)嘛?！痹诖髮W(xué)時(shí)學(xué)習(xí)染織服裝專(zhuān)業(yè)的宋東說(shuō)。 宋東說(shuō)，拯救這些服飾最主要的是制作出植物染料。然而這一技術(shù)已經(jīng)消失，最好能設(shè)置研發(fā)項(xiàng)目來(lái)研究。 “希望能通過(guò)這樣的展覽，讓更多的人看到這些服飾，吸引更多的人參與到研究如何保護(hù)這些服飾中來(lái)?！彼螙|說(shuō)。 清帝后服飾 這次展出的明清服飾體系完整，體現(xiàn)了明清服飾制度的基本框架及二者的繼承與衍變關(guān)系。 清代服飾部分展出了從故宮博物院遴選的六十件清代宮廷系列珍貴服飾以及明代繪畫(huà)，很多是故宮第一次對(duì)外公開(kāi)展示的珍品級(jí)服飾，體系之完整、數(shù)量之巨大，是繼2008年為迎接奧運(yùn)會(huì)而舉辦《天朝衣冠——故宮博物院藏清代宮庭服飾精品展》后的首次。 6月8日，故宮博物院著名清代宮廷服飾研究專(zhuān)家房宏俊將在山東博物館現(xiàn)場(chǎng)講述這些“清宮帝后服飾”，帶您品位“大羽華裳—明清服飾特展”的文化內(nèi)涵。 “您可以從清朝的服裝里看到現(xiàn)今流行的旗袍是如何發(fā)展而來(lái)的?！狈亢昕≈钢患宄畣锡埮劢o參觀(guān)者講解古代服飾對(duì)現(xiàn)代服飾的影響。 “每次改朝換代，第一個(gè)發(fā)生變化的總是服飾?！狈亢昕≌f(shuō)。 清朝是以滿(mǎn)族統(tǒng)治者為主的政權(quán)機(jī)構(gòu)，以騎射為主要生活方式的滿(mǎn)族人推翻明朝統(tǒng)治后，建立了以滿(mǎn)族服裝為大流，緊身窄袖的服裝，并體現(xiàn)出滿(mǎn)漢交融的服飾特點(diǎn)。 然而正是每個(gè)朝代對(duì)服飾的延續(xù)和更新成就了中華服飾文化。如山東文物局局長(zhǎng)謝治秀所說(shuō)：“明代服飾寬大飄逸，清代服飾緊身窄袖，雖然風(fēng)格迥異，但都給世人留下了深刻的形象記憶。” （中國(guó)日?qǐng)?bào)記者趙瑞雪編譯） |
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