Men are spending more and more time in the kitchen encouraged by celebrity chefs like Gordon Ramsay and Jamie Oliver, according to a report from Oxford University.
The effect of the celebrity role models, who have given cookery a more macho image, has combined with a more general drive towards sexual equality, to mean men now spend more than twice the amount of time preparing meals than they did in 1961.
According to research by Prof Jonatahn Gershuny, who runs the Centre for Time Research at Oxford, men now spend more than half an hour a day cooking, up from just 12 minutes a day in 1961.
Prof Gershuny said: "The man in the kitchen is part of a much wider social trend. There has been 40 years of gender equality, but there is another 40 years probably to come."
Women, who a generation ago spent a fraction under two hours a day cooking, now spend just one hour and seven minutes – a dramatic fall, but they still spend far more time at the hob than men.
Some commentators have dubbed the emergence of men in aprons as "Gastrosexuals", who have been inspired to pick up a spatula by the success of Ramsay, Oliver as well as other male celebrity chefs such as Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Marco Pierre White and Keith Floyd.
"I was married in 1974. When my father came to visit me a few weeks later I was wearing an apron when I opened the door. He laughed," said Prof Gershuny
"That would never happen now."
The report, commissioned by frozen food company Birds Eye, also makes clear that the family meal is limping on in far better health than some have suggested, thanks in part to a resurgence in cooking from scratch by some consumers.
Two-thirds of adults claim that they come together to share at least three times a week, even if it is not necessarily around a kitchen or dining room table.
Anne Murphy, general manager at Birds Eye, said: "The evening meal is still clearly central to family life and with some saying family time is on the increase and the appearance of a more frugal consumer, we think the return to traditionalism will continue as a trend.”
However, Prof Gershuny pointed out that the family meal was now rarely eaten by all of its members around a table – with many "family meals" in fact taken on the sofa in the sitting room, and shared by disparate members of the family.
"The family meal has changed very substantially, and few of us eat – as I did when I was a child – at least two meals a day together as a family. But it has survived in a different format."
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牛津大學(xué)的一份報(bào)告顯示,受戈登?拉姆齊和杰米?奧利佛等名廚的激勵(lì),如今男性下廚的時(shí)間越來(lái)越多。
模范名廚們?yōu)榕腼冊(cè)鎏砹烁嗄凶託飧?,再加上性別平等問(wèn)題變得更為普遍,使得與1961年相比,如今男性下廚的時(shí)間增加了兩倍多。
牛津時(shí)代調(diào)查研究中心負(fù)責(zé)人喬納森?格爾舒尼教授開(kāi)展的研究表明,如今男性每天下廚的時(shí)間為半個(gè)多小時(shí),而在1961年僅有12分鐘。
格爾舒尼教授說(shuō):“男性下廚是一個(gè)更為廣泛的社會(huì)趨勢(shì)的一部分。性別平等已有40年的歷史,但可能還會(huì)有下個(gè)40年。”
上一代女性每天花在做飯上的時(shí)間不到兩小時(shí),而如今僅為一小時(shí)零七分鐘——雖然時(shí)間少了很多,但還是比男性下廚的時(shí)間長(zhǎng)很多。
一些評(píng)論家將新涌現(xiàn)出的愛(ài)下廚房的男性稱(chēng)為“愛(ài)廚男”,這些男性受拉姆齊、奧利佛以及休?弗恩利-惠汀斯托爾、馬克?皮埃爾?懷特和基思?弗洛伊德等其他男性名廚成功的激勵(lì),開(kāi)始下廚操刀。
格爾舒尼教授說(shuō):“我1974年結(jié)婚?;楹髱字芨赣H來(lái)看我,我去開(kāi)門(mén)時(shí)正系著圍裙,他見(jiàn)狀后大笑?!?/font>
“但現(xiàn)在再不會(huì)是這樣了?!?/font>
這項(xiàng)由速凍食品公司Birds Eye委托開(kāi)展的調(diào)查還表明,家庭烹飪健康飲食的情況比一些人之前預(yù)想的要好很多,這一部分要?dú)w因于一些消費(fèi)者開(kāi)始學(xué)習(xí)烹飪。
三分之二的受訪(fǎng)成年人表示,他們每周至少和家人聚餐三次,即便不一定是圍坐在廚房里或者餐桌旁。
Birds Eye公司總經(jīng)理安妮?墨菲說(shuō):“晚餐對(duì)于家庭生活仍然很重要。一些人稱(chēng)家人在一起的時(shí)間有所增加,而且消費(fèi)者如今更加節(jié)儉,我們認(rèn)為傳統(tǒng)主義的回歸將成為一種趨勢(shì)繼續(xù)下去?!?/font>
但格爾舒尼教授指出,現(xiàn)在一家人很少全部圍坐在桌邊一起用餐,其實(shí)很多時(shí)候大家會(huì)坐在客廳的沙發(fā)上用餐,家庭的各個(gè)成員則一起分享家宴。
“家庭聚餐發(fā)生了很大變化,現(xiàn)在我們很少有人能與家人每天聚在一起吃至少兩頓飯——就像我小的時(shí)候那樣。但它以另一種形式延續(xù)了下來(lái)。”
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(英語(yǔ)點(diǎn)津許雅寧 姍姍編輯) |