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Sherlock Holmes, Unlikely Style Icon
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Long describes Holmes’s wardrobe as that of “a modern English gentleman. The greatcoat and the deerstalker were key components of any gentleman’s wardrobe in England at that time period.” Thanks to the popularity of the Holmes stories, plays, and films, they remain so in the popular imagination today. Holmes’s clothes in their various iterations are both timeless and very much of their times. The three most indelible Sherlocks—Paget’s original illustrations, Basil Rathbone in the 1930s, and Cumberbatch—all wear contemporary dress, yet they are all unmistakably the same character. One movie poster called Holmes “the original caped crusader.” Take that coat, for example. In the stories, Holmes was “enveloped” in an Ulster, a long, single-breasted coat with a small collar and an attached a hip-length cape. Conan Doyle also mentioned an “overcoat” (possibly the same one) and a “l(fā)ong grey travelling-cloak.” These have morphed over time into one stately, billowing garment, lending the character the mystery and panache of a superhero. (The poster for the 1965 film A Study in Terror called Holmes “the original caped crusader.”) Rathbone’s iconic tartan coat was tailored for the big screen, with a more mobile, elbow-length cape and a wide, face-framing collar. Cumberbatch’s coat—an off-the-rack number by British label Belstaff—was inspired not by the Victorian ulster but the 18th-century greatcoat, with its high, stiffened collar and wide lapels. Instead of a cape, its double-breasted front and pleated, belted back provide volume and movement. |
柯南·道爾對福爾摩斯服裝的大篇幅描述向我們展示了“一個現(xiàn)代英國紳士的形象——在那個時代,大衣和獵鹿帽是英國紳士衣柜里不可缺少的元素”。而因?yàn)楦柲λ瓜盗泄适?、戲劇和電影的普及,時至今日,大家想到福爾摩斯的樣子,仍不感到陌生。在各種各樣的版本里,福爾摩斯的形象永恒而又兼具各個時期的時代特色。佩吉特原始插圖中的福爾摩斯,19世紀(jì)30年代巴茲爾·雷斯伯恩(Basil Rathbone)版的福爾摩斯,以及如今的“卷?!卑娓柲λ埂@三個迄今為止最成功的福爾摩斯形象都穿著帶有各自時代特點(diǎn)的服飾,卻又都準(zhǔn)確無誤地演繹了福爾摩斯永恒的經(jīng)典。 曾有電影海報(bào)稱福爾摩斯是“披風(fēng)斗士原型”。 先說說福爾摩斯的大衣。小說里,福爾摩斯裹著Ulster款大衣——小領(lǐng)單排扣長款外套外搭長及臀部的大斗篷??履稀さ罓栠€提到了另一款“大衣”(也許就是同一件)以及一件“長長的灰色旅行斗篷”。隨著時間的推移,這些裝束賦予福爾摩斯這一人物神秘而又氣派十足的超級英雄形象——1965年電影《恐怖的研究》( A Study in Terror )海報(bào)稱福爾摩斯是“披風(fēng)斗士的原型”(“the original caped crusader”)。雷斯伯恩(Rathbone)版福爾摩斯標(biāo)志性的格子呢大衣,擁有靈活的及肘斗篷和與下顎輪廓更相稱的加寬衣領(lǐng),專為大熒幕重新剪裁。“卷?!钡拇笠聞t是英國品牌貝達(dá)弗(Belstaff)的成衣,其創(chuàng)作靈感并非源于維多利亞時代的Ulster款大衣,而是來自18世紀(jì)的大衣款式,衣領(lǐng)高而硬,雙排扣前襟代替了斗篷,后背的收腰束帶設(shè)計(jì)則使衣服顯得更加大氣靈活。 |
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