女孩穿粉色,男孩穿藍(lán)色,不是很常見么?但這兩種顏色為何成了區(qū)分性別的常用色,這個(gè)問題倒是值得探究。
By Jeanne Maglaty
艾施倩 選注
Little Franklin Delano Roosevelt sits primly on a stool, his white skirt spread smoothly over his lap, his hands clasping a hat trimmed with a marabou feather.[1] Shoulder-length hair and patent leather party shoes complete the ensemble.[2]
We find the look unsettling today, yet social convention of 1884, when FDR was photographed at age 2 1/2, dictated that boys wore dresses until age 6 or 7, also the time of their first haircut.[3] Franklin’s outfit was considered gender-neutral.[4]
But nowadays people just have to know the sex of a baby or young child at first glance. Thus we see, for example, a pink headband encircling the bald head of an infant girl.[5]
Why have young children’s clothing styles changed so dramatically[6]? How did we end up with two “teams”—boys in blue and girls in pink?
It’s really a story of what happened to neutral clothing. For centuries children wore dainty[7] white dresses up to age 6. What was once a matter of practicality—you dress your baby in white dresses and diapers; white cotton can be bleached.[8]
The march toward gender-specific clothes was neither linear nor rapid.[9] Pink and blue arrived, along with other pastels, as colors for babies in the mid-19th century, yet the two colors were not promoted as gender signifiers until just before World War I—and even then, it took time for popular culture to sort things out.[10]
For example, a Ladies’ Home Journal article in June 1918 said, “The generally accepted rule is pink for the boys, and blue for the girls. The reason is that pink, being a more decided and stronger color, is more suitable for the boy, while blue, which is more delicate and dainty, is prettier for the girl.”[11] Other sources said blue was flattering for blonds, pink for brunettes;[12] or blue was for blue-eyed babies, pink for brown-eyed babies.
In 1927, Time magazine printed a chart showing sex-appropriate[13] colors for girls and boys according to leading US stores. In Boston, Filene’s[14] told parents to dress boys in pink. So did Best & Co. in New York City, Halle’s in Cleveland and Marshall Field in Chicago.
Today’s color dictate wasn’t established until the 1940s, as a result of Americans’ preferences as interpreted by manufacturers and retailers.[15] It could have gone the other way.
So the baby boomers[16] were raised in gender-specific clothing. Boys dressed like their fathers, girls like their mothers. Girls had to wear dresses to school, though unadorned styles and tomboy play clothes were acceptable.[17]
When the women’s liberation movement arrived in the mid-1960s, with its anti-feminine, anti-fashion message, the unisex look became the rage—but completely reversed from the time of young Franklin Roosevelt.[18] Now young girls were dressing in masculine—or at least unfeminine—styles, devoid of[19] gender hints.
One of the ways [feminists] thought that girls were kind of lured into subservient roles as women were through clothing.[20] If we dress our girls more like boys and less like frilly[21] little girls, they are going to have more options and feel freer to be active.
Gender-neutral clothing remained popular until about 1985. All of a sudden it wasn’t just a blue overall; it was a blue overall with a teddy bear holding a football. Disposable diapers[22] were manufactured in pink and blue.
Another important factor has been the rise of consumerism[23] among children in recent decades. According to child development experts, children are just becoming conscious of their gender between ages 3 and 4, and they do not realize it’s permanent until age 6 or 7.[24] At the same time, however, they are the subjects of sophisticated and pervasive advertising that tends to reinforce social conventions.[25] So they think, for example, that what makes someone female is having long hair and a dress.
While the fashion world may have divided children into pink and blue, but in the world of real individuals, not all is black and white[26].
Vocabulary
1. 小富蘭克林端正地坐在凳子上,白色的裙子平整地蓋在膝上,兩支小手抓著一頂帽子,帽子邊沿鑲著禿鸛的羽毛。Franklin Delano Roosevelt: 富蘭克林?德拉諾?羅斯福(1882—1945),美國第32任總統(tǒng) [1933—1945],就任總統(tǒng)后推行“新政”,二戰(zhàn)時(shí)對(duì)建立反法斯西同盟作出重大貢獻(xiàn)。
2. patent leather: 漆皮;party shoes: 宴會(huì)鞋,通常為高跟鞋;ensemble: 整體效果,也指全套配合協(xié)調(diào)的女裝。
3. unsettling: 令人不安的;social convention: 社會(huì)習(xí)俗;dictate: 規(guī)定,命令,也用作名詞;dress: 連衣裙,套裙。
4. outfit:(尤指在特殊場合穿的)全套服裝;gender-neutral: 中性的。
5. headband: 束發(fā)帶;encircle: 圍繞,環(huán)繞;infant: 嬰兒(期)的。
6. dramatically: 戲劇化地,劇烈地。
7. dainty: 小巧的,精致的。
8. practicality: 實(shí)用性;diaper: 尿布;bleach: 漂白。
9. the march: 進(jìn)展,形成;gender-specific: 針對(duì)某一性別的;linear: 連續(xù)的。
10. pastel: 柔和的淡色彩;promote: 推廣;gender signifier: 性別標(biāo)識(shí)物;sort out: 弄清楚。
11. decided: 堅(jiān)定的,堅(jiān)決的;delicate: 精美的,雅致的。
12. flattering: 悅?cè)说?,此處指“適合與……搭配”;blond: 白膚金發(fā)碧眼的人(男的一般稱為blond,女的一般稱為blonde);brunette: 具黑(或深褐)色頭發(fā)和淺黑色皮膚的女子,此類男子稱為brunet。
13. sex-appropriate: 適合某種性別的。
14. Filene’s: 位于波士頓的老牌百貨商店,于2005年倒閉。下文的Best & Co.為兒童服飾商店,Halle’s和Marshall Field為百貨商店。
15. preference: 喜愛或偏愛的事物;interpret: 闡釋;manufacturer: 制造商,制造廠;retailer: 零售商。
16. baby boomer: 生育高峰期出生的一代人(之一員),生育高峰期是指二戰(zhàn)后1947至1961年間出生的一代美國人。
17. unadorned: 未經(jīng)裝飾的,樸素的;tomboy play clothes:“假小子”式的輕便裝。
18. anti-feminine: 反女性特征的,feminine(具有女性特征的)的反義詞為masculine(具有男性特征的);unisex: 不分男女的;the rage: 時(shí)尚,風(fēng)靡一時(shí)的事物;reversed: 反向的,相反的。
19. devoid of: 毫無的,沒有的。
20. feminist: 女權(quán)主義者;lure: 引誘,誘惑;subservient: 恭順的,低聲下氣的。
21. frilly: (衣物等)飾有褶邊的。
22. disposable diaper: 紙尿褲。
23. consumerism: 消費(fèi)主義。
24. conscious: 意識(shí)到的;permanent: 常在的。
25. 然而與此同時(shí),兒童也是處心積慮、無處不在的廣告的目標(biāo)對(duì)象,這些廣告也在強(qiáng)化社會(huì)習(xí)慣。
26. black and white: 涇渭分明。
(來源:英語學(xué)習(xí)雜志)