關(guān)于可持續(xù)時(shí)尚，社會(huì)各界一直有很多不同的聲音。有人認(rèn)為，購買打著環(huán)保旗號的品牌服裝有助于保護(hù)環(huán)境，還有人認(rèn)為，購買奢侈品牌而不買快時(shí)尚品牌的衣服可以防止工人被壓榨。這些都是廣為流傳的誤解。真相到底是什么呢？

關(guān)于可持續(xù)時(shí)尚最常見的9個(gè)誤解（上）

MYTH: Brands that promote sustainability are sustainable
誤解五：打著可持續(xù)旗號的品牌就是可持續(xù)的

TRUTH: "Sustainability" and other greenwashing buzzwords can be misused to attract consumers eager to reduce their environmental impact on the planet. Fashion search engine Lyst reported in 2019 that it saw a 75% increase in sustainable-related search terms compared with the previous year. "Objective criteria for rating sustainable fashion are missing," McKinsey's Saskia Hedrich told CNN.

事實(shí)：“可持續(xù)”和其他“漂綠”的流行詞可能被誤用于吸引那些迫切想減少對地球環(huán)境影響的顧客。時(shí)尚搜索引擎Lyst去年報(bào)告稱，2019年可持續(xù)相關(guān)的搜索詞條相比前一年增加了75%。麥肯錫咨詢公司的薩斯基亞·海德里希告訴美國有線電視新聞網(wǎng)說：“可持續(xù)時(shí)尚的客觀評價(jià)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)缺失了?！?/p>

MYTH: Most clothes can be recycled
誤解六：大多數(shù)衣服都可以被回收

TRUTH: Clothing can be difficult to recycle, in part because of how it's made. For one, many fabrics are made from blends (of cotton and polyester, for instance), which must be separated if the material is to be turned into a new garment. In the US, less than 14% of clothing and shoes thrown away end up being recycled. But "recycling" is also a broad term that can be broken down into "downcycling" and "upcycling," and the difference matters. Downcycled garments often wind up as fibers used for home insulation or carpets. In Europe, less than 1% of collected clothing is actually recycled into new garments, according to Circle Economy.

事實(shí)：衣服回收起來可能會(huì)很難，一部分是因?yàn)橐路闹谱鞣椒?。首先，許多面料都是棉滌或其他材質(zhì)混紡，如果要用這些面料重新做成新衣就必須把各種材質(zhì)分開。在美國，被扔掉的衣服鞋子最后只有不到14%被回收。但是“回收”從廣義上可以被分為“下游循環(huán)”和“上游循環(huán)”，而兩者的區(qū)別很重要。下游循環(huán)的衣服通常會(huì)成為用于家庭隔熱材料或地毯的纖維。循環(huán)經(jīng)濟(jì)組織稱，在歐洲，不到1%的收集到的衣服真的被回收并制成新衣服。

MYTH: It's not worth it to repair cheap clothes.
誤解七：修補(bǔ)便宜衣服不值當(dāng)

TRUTH: Mending a fast fashion item may mean spending what you paid for it, but keeping the same clothes in rotation is the best thing you can do to reduce your carbon footprint. You can also learn how to carry out small repairs at home to keep costs down, including replacing buttons, fixing broken zippers, resewing loose seams and hemming pants.

事實(shí)：修補(bǔ)一件快時(shí)尚衣服也許意味著修補(bǔ)花的錢和買衣服花的錢一樣多，但是循環(huán)使用同一件衣服是減少碳足跡的最佳方法。你也可以學(xué)習(xí)如何在家小修小補(bǔ)以節(jié)省成本，包括換紐扣、修拉鏈、縫合開線處和給褲子卷邊。

MYTH: Your online returns are resold to other customers
誤解八：你網(wǎng)購?fù)嘶氐囊路直毁u給其他顧客

TRUTH: Your returns may end up incinerated or in landfills. It's often cheaper for companies to dispose of returns than to inspect and repackage them, and labels may be unwilling to donate the items for fear of cheapening their brand or damaging their exclusivity. A CBC report in 2019 highlighted this practice, pointing out that the volume of online returns has also increased by 95% over the past five years.

事實(shí)：你退回的衣服可能最后被焚燒或扔進(jìn)了垃圾填埋場。公司檢查和重新包裝退回的衣服所花的費(fèi)用通常比直接處理掉更高。品牌商也可能因擔(dān)心拉低品牌價(jià)值或破壞獨(dú)特性而不愿捐掉退回的衣服。加拿大廣播公司2019年的一份報(bào)告凸顯了這種行為，并指出網(wǎng)購?fù)素浟吭谶^去五年增加了95%。

MYTH: Your clothes are from the country listed on the tag
誤解九：你的衣服來自標(biāo)簽上印的生產(chǎn)國

TRUTH: Your clothes may be assembled in that country, but the tag can't reveal the complex chain of labor that went into making them. "Your label won't tell you where in the world the cotton was farmed, where the fiber was spun into a yarn, where the yarn was woven into a fabric (or) where it was dyed and printed," states Fashion Revolution's report, "How to Be a Fashion Revolutionary." "It won't tell you where the thread, dyes, zips, buttons, beading or other features came from." To encourage labels to be transparent about their supply chains, Fashion Revolution has been promoting the hashtag #whomademyclothes?, asking users to tag brands in selfies with clothing tags visible.

事實(shí)：你的衣服可能在該國進(jìn)行縫合，但標(biāo)簽卻無法透露參與制作衣服的復(fù)雜勞動(dòng)鏈。時(shí)尚革命組織的報(bào)告《如何進(jìn)行時(shí)尚革命》中寫道：“你的衣服標(biāo)簽不會(huì)告訴你原料所用棉花是在世界的哪個(gè)地方種植的，纖維是在哪里被紡成紗線的，紗線是在哪里織成面料的，以及面料是在哪里染色或印花的。它不會(huì)告訴你紗線、染料、拉鏈、紐扣、珠飾或其他裝飾物來自哪里?！睘榱斯膭?lì)在標(biāo)簽上讓供應(yīng)鏈透明化，時(shí)尚革命組織一直在宣傳#誰做了我的衣服？這一話題標(biāo)簽，請用戶在自拍上曬出衣服標(biāo)簽并標(biāo)注出衣服品牌。

英文來源：美國有線電視新聞網(wǎng)

翻譯&編輯：丹妮