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化妝不再是女性專利?男性成中國化妝品市場“新寵” China's new online cosmetics stars: men

中國日報網(wǎng) 2018-08-13 13:58

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法新社最近的一篇報道指出,男性正在成為中國化妝品領(lǐng)域新“網(wǎng)紅”。隨著市場和觀念的變化,化妝品不再是女性的專用品,男性稍微化點妝也開始被人接受,由此催生出了一個新興的男性化妝品市場。

2016年屈臣氏活動現(xiàn)場,美容護膚達人Juman示范男士化妝重點。

When Jiang Cheng first tried a bit of concealer during his first year of university in China it gave him self-confidence and he was instantly hooked.

江成(音)大一的時候第一次嘗試用了點遮瑕霜之后自信了起來,他一下子就對化妝來了興趣。

Now he is among hundreds of Chinese men sharing beauty tips online and cashing in on the booming male cosmetics industry.

現(xiàn)在,他是中國數(shù)百個在網(wǎng)絡(luò)上分享化妝技巧、從蓬勃發(fā)展的男性化妝品行業(yè)“分一杯羹”的男性之一。

"I found that putting on make-up is actually quite easy," the 24-year-old said as he gently brushed his face with some foundation.

24歲的江成(音)一邊輕輕地在臉上刷粉底,一邊說:“我發(fā)現(xiàn)化妝其實挺容易的?!?/p>

"Women may not fully grasp the concept of male make-up. If a girl puts on my make-up, they may not be able to achieve the effect that I really want," Jiang said.

江成說:“女性不能完全領(lǐng)會男性化妝品的理念。如果女孩用我的化妝品,可能無法達到我真正想要的效果?!?/p>

Every weekend, Jiang spends a couple of hours in front of his iPhone at his  makeshift studio in Beijing trying on the latest balms and blush for hundreds of live viewers, who can simultaneously buy the products he reviews.

每個周末,江成都會花幾個小時在他北京的臨時工作室,坐在他的蘋果手機前,面向數(shù)百名直播觀眾試用最新彩妝和腮紅,這些觀眾可實時購買他所評價的產(chǎn)品。

"This color is not that outrageous that men can't wear it safely even in a conservative environment," he explains to his fans.

他告訴粉絲:“這個顏色不太夸張,在保守環(huán)境下男性也可放心使用。”

Online beauty stars form an enormous industry in China, with internet celebrities known as "wang hong", or online stars, blurring the line between entertainment and e-commerce.

網(wǎng)上美妝明星在中國形成了龐大的產(chǎn)業(yè),這些被稱為“網(wǎng)紅”的網(wǎng)絡(luò)名人模糊了娛樂和電子商務(wù)之間的界限。

Companies like Alibaba and JD.com have launched live-streaming platforms that allow viewers to purchase on the go while watching videos. And cosmetics brands pay big money for online celebrities, almost always female, to review their new products.

阿里巴巴和京東等很多中國企業(yè)都推出了實時直播平臺,觀眾可以邊看視頻直播邊下單購物?;瘖y品品牌花大價錢聘請網(wǎng)絡(luò)名人評價它們的新品,這些網(wǎng)紅幾乎都是女性。

But now the market and gender norms are changing, with cosmetics no longer seen as exclusively for women and male celebrities showing that it is okay for men to dab on a bit of blush.

但是現(xiàn)在市場和性別標準發(fā)生了改變,化妝品不再被看做女性專屬,男性網(wǎng)紅向人們展示,男性也可以微微擦一點腮紅。

Jiang says a firm that manages bloggers pays him around 5,000 yuan per month to feature products from cosmetics companies.

江成說,一家管理博主的公司每個月給他大約5000元人民幣,詳細展示化妝品公司的產(chǎn)品。

歐睿信息咨詢公司表示,中國男性美妝市場未來5年預(yù)計增長15.2%,而同期全球市場將增長11%。

Increasingly, foreign firms like La Mer and Aesop work with video bloggers such as "Lan Pu Lan", to promote their products to his nearly 1.4 million followers.

海藍之謎和伊索等越來越多的國際公司也開始和視頻博主合作,比如與美妝博主“蘭普蘭”合作,將產(chǎn)品推廣給他的140萬粉絲。

The 27-year-old spends up to 10,000 yuan a month on beauty products and says China's "Little Fresh Meat" -- a term referring to young good-looking men -- is spearheading this trend.

這位27歲的博主每月花費近萬元購買美妝產(chǎn)品。他說,中國的“小鮮肉”(年輕貌美的男性)正引領(lǐng)這一風(fēng)潮。

"We're seeing more men in the media wearing make-up. This will naturally become the norm," Lan said.

他說:“我們在媒體上看到越來越多的男性化著妝。這會自然而然地成為一種常態(tài)?!?/p>

Despite what appears to be social progress in many of the country's cosmopolitan cities, the video blogger says he still receives hate messages and criticism for appearing in smoky red eyeshadow.

雖然這一趨勢在中國很多大都市都被視為一種社會進步,但他還是會因為化了煙熏紅眼影收到仇恨信息和批評。

"'Why would a man look like that? Why does a man need to wear make-up?' These are some of messages I get," Lan says, adding he has been called a "sissy" and other slurs.

他說:“為什么男人要化成那樣?為什么男人需要化妝?我收到的一些信息都是這么說的。”還有人用“娘娘腔”等侮辱性詞語稱呼他。

For Jiang, the fear of being ridiculed by his own parents stops him from picking up the make-up brush in front of them.

江成說,他擔心遭到父母的奚落,因此不敢在他們面前化妝。

"I don't want to have conflict with my parents. We don't see eye to eye, our values and concepts of life are different.

“我不想與父母發(fā)生沖突。我們的想法并不完全一致,價值觀和觀念也不一樣。”

"They are just unable to accept the daily make-up routine for a man," he says.

他說:“他們只是無法接受男人每天都化妝?!?/p>

不過,中國男性化妝品公司軒諦的執(zhí)行董事莫飛表示,這些情況會隨著時間改變。

"There will be more and more men who take more care in how they look and the demands will increase. Men in the East are more accepting," Mo says.

他說:“越來越多的男性將更加關(guān)注自己的外表,需求會隨之增加。東方男性接受度會更強?!?/p>

He opened Chetti Rouge in 2005 with few products. Now the beauty company sells a wide variety of cosmetics ranging from foundation to lipstick solely for men and has moved the entire business online.

莫飛于2005年創(chuàng)辦了軒諦,當時產(chǎn)品很少?,F(xiàn)在這家化妝品公司出售從男士專用粉底到唇膏等各種化妝品,并將全部業(yè)務(wù)轉(zhuǎn)到線上。

"We saw potential in the market very early on," Mo told AFP, adding that the company expanded to Thailand three years ago.

他告訴法新社說:“我們很早就看到了市場潛力?!避幹B在3年前就將業(yè)務(wù)擴展到了泰國。

"It might be that men have accepted make-up. For men to browse products in shopping malls, may be for some men a little intimidating, hence the best way for them to buy is online, which is why our sales strategy is mainly on the internet."

“男性可能接受了化妝。有些男性可能害怕在購物中心選擇產(chǎn)品,因此對他們來說網(wǎng)購最適合,所以我們主要在網(wǎng)上銷售。”

來源:法新社、參考消息網(wǎng)

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